The Mathilde Blouse

Bonjour!  I’m feeling sassy and “french” today.  I’m wearing a classic red lip and rosebud earrings to go with my french-style blouse I made this weekend.  I’m even craving some Thai food for dinner (French/Thai fusion restaurants are a hit in Paris).

This pattern is the long-awaited Mathilde blouse.  I altered the pattern before I even cut my fabric, which ideally is the way it should always work out.  I cut a gentle curve at the waist from the size 3 mark to halfway between size 2 and 1, then back out to 3 at the hip.  For the sleeves, I drew down a straight line from the underarm to the end of the sleeve to cut down on excess fabric and prevent the lovely, poofy sleeve from overwhelming my petite arms and shoulders.

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The tucks went off pretty well.  The fabric itself had a mild stretch to it, which made some of the tucks a bit wiggly and curved, and the thread tension was almost too tight even at its loosest setting.  However, a good press with the iron smoothed out most of my problems.  This is one sewing project that could not have been accomplished without an iron, unlike sewing with knits.  Unfortunately, wiggly tucks and rolling hems were the least of my problems — about halfway through sewing my tucks into the shirt, my machine locked up for almost the whole weekend until I finally managed to fix it (I was stupid and didn’t check to see if the upper thread was properly wound through the machine, I just kept checking the bobbin).

While the pattern called for only 7 buttons, I used 8 — and I’ll probably going to go home tonight and add a 9th at the bottom to hold together the fabric and keep it from flaring at the hip.

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As far as french seams go, I’m in love.  They’re so smooth and clean, and so much better for thin, drapey fabrics like this.  When trying to finish the hem, the overcasting stitch kept yanking my fabric and rolling it around on me.

The polyester crepe de chine fabric is perfect for hot, humid summers as it’s super floaty and breathes incredibly well.  It pairs even better with a pattern like this, where the fabric barely brushes your skin.

So I finally did it!  I made an Arielle AND the Mathilde!  Yay!  Up next, Fifi pajama set in double gauze, Marigold trousers in crepe georgette, and a Françoise dress made from lovely green floral cotton!  Just need to go shopping for sewing supplies now.

P.S. I’ve had my eye on a dress form and form molding cushions for a while now — I don’t want to start the Martha dress without one!  Just waiting for a good day to:gr3vz


3 thoughts on “The Mathilde Blouse

    1. It seems to be the case, but that was never the plan! I love the vintage/mod style of her patterns and almost never made something by her that I haven’t liked (except for the Bettine dress, which was more because it’s just not a good style for me).

    2. I’m branching out into new territory, now that I’ve reached a higher skill level and am less daunted by patterns. I’ve got some Papercut Patterns stocked away and am starting to hack the patterns I already have into new things.

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